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Mirka at Tolarno

Editorial Review

Editorial Review

The artist Mirka Mora is the spirit and soul of this place. She and Georges Mora, the late art dealer, once ran the restaurant here and her murals still grace the walls. In fact, they've been extended to include visions of angels and birds, fantastic creatures and people. In the restaurant, the red leather banquettes pick up the bright colours of the original mural. The bare timber tables are set with white tablecloths at night, while the neighbouring bar is more casual and is open from breakfast onwards.

Guy Grossi, who also owns Grossi Florentino in the city, describes the food style as Continental. That means it's full of retro classics but often with a twist. The prosciutto slices that are wrapped around melon chunks come straight from Parma. Mussels are cooked in verjuice, leek and saffron; calves' liver is served with caramelised onions and mash; and there's even a chateaubriand for two. A word to the wise: have the gelati for dessert. The wine list is terrific, including well chosen Australian, Italian and French wines. Prices are what you'd expect from a smart daily restaurant, but the two-course $30 lunch menu that includes a glass of wine and coffee is one of Melbourne's more amazing bargains. The bar is chic, affordable and also a very nice place for a quick meal or drink.

Rita Erlich, October 2007