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Marios Cafe

Editorial Review

Editorial Review

Mario Maccarone and Mario DePasquale have been attracting Fitzroy's finest to their Brunswick Street institution since 1986, making them the longest-serving owners on the strip. The Marios' theory has always been to offer good coffee and fresh food. With comfort dishes such as the penne puttanesca and the fettuccini pesto still pleasing the crowds after more than two decades, that simple theory may be one for aspiring restaurateurs to remember. But that's not to say change is a bad thing, and Mario Mac believes that Melbourne's hospitality growth means the average punter knows more about food and wine, and is ready to explore a more diverse menu. Head chef Alex Schembri refreshes half of Marios' menu every eight weeks, so the more adventurous diner can choose from exotic options such as the chickpea and vegetable tagine with lemon cous cous and chilli yoghurt, while those looking for comfort can still be wooed by a traditional spaghetti bolognaise.

Like the delicious food, Marios' decor and atmosphere is about simplicity and quality. The classically Brunswick Street wall of music and art posters clashes nicely with fine-dining white tablecloths; and the delightfully snooty, waist-coated waiters bring as much character to the cafe as the Fitzroyalty that dine there. For those new to Marios, try one of the pasta dishes to appreciate why some recipes are perfect just as they are. Marios is still well-priced, with pastas starting at $12.50 and all-day breakfasts at $7.50. Credit cards are a no-go but there is an in-house ATM.

Frank Trimboli, August 2008