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Cicciolina

Editorial Review

Editorial Review

The cat is out of the bag when it comes to Cicciolina in St Kilda. The exterior's not much to look at, there is no website to speak of and they don't accept bookings. But none of this makes a difference when it comes to your chances of getting a table for dinner because Cicciolina is a hit. The restaurant is fairly small and always crowded with stylish types wearing numerous shades of black. The great thing about Cicciolina is that it has gotten back to basics. The key ingredients in a winning restaurant are food, drink and atmosphere and Cicciolina has pizazz to spare. Service is less high up on the agenda because no one is here to make a personal fuss over you yet the waiters are efficient, brisk and sometimes smiley.

The food really is terrific - it's Mediterranean with a modern and clever twist. Each dish is easy on the eye and the flavours are always precise and focused. Try the calamari or the Carpaccio of tuna, with tiny capers and grilled bread. The wine list is full of interesting things to drink including lots of Italian and Spanish choices, with a well selected range by the glass. The atmosphere is always buzzy but the downside is because there are no bookings, evenings tend to be rowdy occasions waiting at the bar. Not your scene? Then aim to get in for a very early dinner, or do lunch instead.

Rita Erlich, May 2008