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Marquis of Lorne

Editorial Review

Editorial Review

It's nice to see pub culture is alive and well in Melbourne. There are three pubs within short walking distance of Marquis of Lorne and they're all doing a brisk trade by 6pm on any Saturday. Given this close proximity, you'd assume that each of the surrounding pubs would offer something a bit different. You know, a unique feature or gimmick to ensure customers get their pints at Marquis of Lorne rather than the place 300 metres down the road.

Strangely, that's not really the case. The front bar at Marquis is about as generic as you can get. It might be warm and inviting, but the old armchairs, lamps and faded decor could be virtually any pub in the Fitzroy area. It's only once you make your way upstairs to the restaurant that things start to get interesting. Featuring 1970's retro tables and (crap) cafeteria chairs, it's the kind of ironic set-up you could only get away with in Fitzroy - especially when mains are around the $25 mark. Still, it does have a certain downmarket charm, and the open fireplace and vintage lamps help a lot in that regard.

Drinks throughout the place are standard pub fare; cheap beers, the obligatory Carlton Draught on tap, some mid-priced wines (in the restaurant) and spirits that won't send you blind if you indulge. If you ask for a cosmopolitan you'll arouse nothing but contempt from the staff.

While it's not exactly pushing the boundaries of pub culture, Marquis of Lorne does have a retro-ish Melbourne charm; helped a lot by the upstairs restaurant. Those just after a quiet ale could go to any of the surrounding pubs and hardly notice the difference.
Mikolai, July 2008