The Commoner
Editorial Review
The Commoner may look like a sleek little restaurant, but it's actually a wine bar - a wine bar that just happens to serve some incredible food. The venue is bright and cheerful, with clean, understated lines set against a white and beige colour scheme. That said, it does look an awful lot like a restaurant. The front room is all tables for two and definitely feels like you should be ordering a meal to go with your drink. This is reinforced by the menu, divided as it is between brunch, small meals and dinner.
There's a small courtyard out the back and while it's a more casual set-up, it retains the clean look and colour scheme found inside. If you're simply looking for a drink and aren't interested in ordering wood-roasted carrot with soft-boiled egg and harissa, then this is probably the way to go. Whichever area you opt for, the drinks are as spectacular as the food. Or is it the other way around? The wine list features 20 local options alongside selections from Hungry, Italy and France. Meanwhile, the cocktails are all produce-driven and seasonal, crafted with the same care and attention that goes into the meals.
At the end of the day, the meals and the drinks available at The Commoner compliment each other so well it's hard to separate them. If you're after a sophisticated meal with drinks to match, this Fitzroy wine bar is definitely worth a visit. Those just after a drink may want to look elsewhere.
Mikolai, December 2008
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